Shades Of Chocolate

 

The most disappointing thing of life is the monotonous daily routine,  so we are always looking for new ideas and solutions. Interestingly, when making complex things seem simple, and vice versa, complicate the simplest.

 

For this experiment, we'll need about 300 gram of merino wool roving, 70 gram of viscose fibers and 200-250 gram of Corriedale fleece of two different shades.

 

Today, we return to our old seamless jacket pattern with stand collar but we'll make it a little differently. This pattern consists of two separate parts - the main detail and the yoke with sleeves. I used to connect the parts when felting, to make the seamless garment, but this time I want to point to a different textures and focus on a volumetric sleeves and other additional details.

I'd like to offer you another method of attaching the yoke using butt seam in felting. I'll modify the pattern as shown on the scheme below. The additional resists are stitched together down the center in the front and in the back side.

Getting started with the back yoke detail. All parts of the sleeve have to be laid, moistened and rubbed separately, so you need to be very careful.

Fold the additional template in half and bend it aside.

We shall use a layer of viscose as the sleeve lining. Gently pull fibers apart. Moisten viscose fibers with a warm soapy water.

Continue laying out the wool diagonally, then moisten and rub through the mesh, removing excess water with a towel. Don’t forget about overlay allowances for bending.

Expand the template. Before you turn the "petal", cover the distant edge with a film strip to prevent fibers from joining.

Continue laying out viscose fibers, then moisten and turn the allowances on the front. Continue wool layout then moisten the wool, rub through the mesh and turn the "petal" of the additional resist.

Continue laying out the wool around the entire template.

Carefully rub the allowances.

Continue laying out the yoke detail.

Moisten and rub through the mesh. Remove the mesh and lightly rub around the yoke, armhole, neckline and bottom of sleeves in a circular motion forming a smooth edge.

Turn over the template and continue laying out the front yoke detail.

Take the fleece curls and spread them onto the wool surface. You can spread the fleece in different ways; my choice is the alternation of darker and lighter stripe.

Moisten and rub through the mesh until they are strongly connected to the wool.

Mirror the template and continue laying out the second front yoke detail in a same manner. Turn the template and spread the curls on the back.

Pay close attention to the side part - it should not have any ripples.

Now the intensive felting process is beginning. Wrap the template in the mesh and start rolling in different directions, removing the excess water with a towel.

When you feel that the wool become dense - take off the template, turn the yoke inside out and continue felting.

If you want to obtain more boucle texture - try to felt like kneading the dough; toss up the garment making it airy.

Thoroughly stretch the sleeves to the side and down. Try to avoid any ripples.

Put the yoke aside to dry when you have reached 2/3 of shrinkage.

If you have a lot of workspace, unfold the main pattern in a plane, making it flared as shown on the scheme below.

Getting started with wool layout using two layers - horizontal and vertical.

Moisten and rub through the mesh. Remove the mesh and lightly rub around the template in a circular motion forming a smooth edge (except the bottom).

I supposed to make a coulisse (i.e. a slider mounted on the elastic band) along the bottom of jacket and on the pockets. We'll need an additional filmstrip of 2-3cm width. Bend the wool as shown on the photo and rub through the mesh.

Carefully spread the fleece onto the inner side.

Rub through the mesh until the curls are strongly connected to the wool surface.

Begin the intensive felting, prepare the detail in the same manner and leave it to dry.

The edges should be densely felted and ready to be stitched.

Lay the dried parts on the plane, connect them with a blind stitch using brown thread.

Continue felting process until the jacket becomes suitable for a first fitting. Cover the seam with a bias tape or decorative trim.

The separate details are sewed pockets. To obtain a volumetric pockets cut the original pocket template in two places and flare it as on the scheme.

The final stage is making a separate viscose lining and sewing the zipper.

 

Well, that's all - it's time for a walk!

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