Poor Lamb

The pattern of the seamless-felted long-sleeve jacket is proposed for all those who know felting well. We'll need 11-13 oz. (300-350g) of Bluefaced Leicester wool and 3.5 oz. (~100g) of viscose for this jacket model.

 

The pattern contains Pattern #1 sleeve back and back yoke, Pattern #2 lower back, Pattern #3 front yoke and front sleeve, Pattern #4 lower front. Pattern details should be transferred to a polyethylene film.

This pattern is a basic design - you can make changes to it at your own discretion. I changed the collar, flap and reduced the length of the jacket this time.

The auxiliary armhole connection detail is traced on a piece of  2-3mm flexible foam. Lay Pattern #2 lower back and Pattern #4 lower front side by side making sure the back and front lay parallel to each other. Outline the contour of the two pieces, which represent the armhole front and back; trace and cut this with the scissors.

Layout begins with Pattern #1 "sleeve back and back of yoke" following diagram. Carefully follow the layout diagrams of wool for each pattern piece. First, lay viscose as the "clouds" – this will be the lining. Continue laying out the wool on the remaining pattern pieces.

Do not forget about the allowance for bending. Lay the wool down in a fantail to the armhole to prevent the unnecessary folds.

Turns over the pattern on to your work surface don't forget to lay the piece of film on to prevent the allowances from felting together. You can move front detail from side to side or use two pieces.

After processing the top withdraw the pattern and set this aside.  Remove some of the water using a sponge or a towel.

Bottom layout is similar to top layout. Don't forget about allowances for bending.

 

Do not wet or rub allowances for the connection of the top and bottom details. If they are casually felted - dry them a little with the towel or hairdryer.

Draw the side pocket pattern proportionally to your model. Arrange pockets on each side of Pattern #4.  Pay attention to the entrance strengthening it with an additional linear layer of wool.

 

Now the pattern pieces are ready to connect.

The connection of each pattern piece is the most crucial at this point. Place Pattern #1 back yoke and sleeve facing you. Place a piece of the air bubble film inside the sleeve. The first sketch on the detail is the sleeve bend. The second sketch shows the front detail - connect that with the flap.

Place the auxiliary armhole detail on the sleeve and bend allowances to it. Then, take the bottom detail and place it face-to-face so as the flap fold coincide with the scratch on the armhole detail.

The allowance bends to the reverse side of the sleeve. Cover it with a film and process with the finishing sander at first; than manually, rub carefully inside and outside. Turn and rub joint with care to avoid relief locations.

Now the flap and yoke details must be spread out exactly on the table surface. First, the yoke detail, than the flap for the allowance width.  Decorate the obtained joint with viscose, wet and use sander. Rub the joint manually from inside and outside. Watching to avoid any ripples.

Make other yoke and sleeve joints similar. Place plaster film in between sleeves so they will not felt together. There remains one thing -to join the lower back Pattern #2 and Pattern #1 yoke. Spread the yoke in the surface over the back detail. Similarly decorate with viscose, wet and gently rub.

Now the jacket is completely connected. Attentively check all joints making sure you have no holes or gaps. Pass to the following stage - remove excess water. Next start felting. When you feel it is ready to fit, try it on or use your mannequin. Continue to felt the jacket on the table, bend the sleeves to shape, roll in all directions equally.

...and so many times! Unroll the jacket, rinse out completely in warm water; turn back to the process adding fresh soap. Roll until the jacket becomes suitable for a first fitting.

Attentively we estimate the initial fitting of the jacket. Next we engage in local felting... reduce length of sleeves, waist and armhole height. Stretch out any ripples on the mannequin (or on a human body). Feel yourself as a sculptor. Remember, that all your feelings are on your fingertips and you will see the result!

 

I hope this lesson will help you in achieving your own creative independence. Use this pattern as a basic design for your own creativity, ideas and developments. Good luck!

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