In the twilight

You can see fanciful visions staring into the smoldering embers of dying fire, into the flames. Shadows come alive against the dark night sky, goes down to the water and disappear in the depths of the pond...

The round yoke jacket pattern is easy to stitch and suitable for felting. The pattern contains five parts: #1 single piece back-flap, #2 sleeve part, #3 back yoke, #4 front yoke flap, #5  collar part.

 

Each pattern piece is prepared separately, then stitched together at the control points,  then finished the felting process and fitted.

 

In my search for new felt textures, I wanted to create an unusual cloth by using different felted densities with complex color spilling over one material to another.

 

Let's take a floral print (cut into different motifs from silk pieces of different density) as the basis for this romantic jacket. In addition to this, we need about 8-10oz (250g) of merino wool of different colors and 2oz (50g) of viscose fibers.

Begin the process by the unfolding pattern piece #1 onto the table surface. Lay down viscose fibers, moisten with warm soapy water, lightly rub forming smooth edges.

The wool layout is the conventional two-layer, without any changing, with an additional strengthening layer along the edges. Mix the colors to obtain a smooth effect.

Moisten the wool and gently rub through the mesh, forming open edges with circular movements.

Randomly lay the cut silk motifs using more of the blue colors. Rub the silk pieces patiently until fibers appear on the surface. Use all of the cut silk motifs to create a  desired effect.

Cover your work with film and turn over. Begin the intensive felting process rubbing from the inside out. Roll in a tube in different directions making the edges dense. Put this piece aside when you have a reached a shrinkage of 2/3.

The next step is pattern piece #2: the sleeve. By working both at once felting will be faster. The background becomes blue with the wine tone of the cut motifs.

Turn the template after rubbing, spread both edges overlapped for the allowances width. Lay down thin wool strands along overlapped edges. Moisten and rub through the mesh. Mark the anchor points of junction with a contrasting thread.

Remove the template and continue felting process  to the 2/3 shrinkage. Pay close attention to the open edges and joints, making them dense.

Now work with the yoke and collar layout.  It is possible to make an inset  collar but  this time  we will be making it seamless. The yoke will be covered by silk gauze.

 

Begin the layout placing the viscose fibers down first then the two wool layers.  Moisten with warm water, gently rubbing through the mesh.  Lay the silk fabric down over the wool; moisten and rub with warm water until the silk adheres.  Don't forget the allowances for bending.

Turn over the template; continue with flap yoke detail.

The yoke is now complete and ready to connect. Don't forget to mark anchor points with a bright thread.

Lay down the collar in the same manner leaving allowances dry. Spread the yoke and collar details exactly on the table surface. First lay the yoke, then the collar for the allowance width.

Decorate the joint with viscose fibers, moisten and rub through the mesh. Continue felting; the wool must be dense along the open edges and ready for stitching.

At this point start to join the back-flap piece to the sleeves. Use pins to hold the pieces together then baste together with thread. Continue connecting  the yoke matching the anchor points.

After all the pieces are joined together continue to felt until the garment is ready to fit. It is necessary to sew all the seams with your machine for reinforcement and lay a bias tape to finish the hem.

As a result I've got a light and comfortable garment both sewn and felted with a complex felt texture. I wish you good luck with your felting projects and hope my experience will be useful for you.

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