Coffee Beans

I'm glad to present a very interesting and simple design - the jacket with raglan sleeves. In my opinion, it works well for felting because of its extreme simplicity and elegance.

 

This lesson will be devoted to some features of patterns. I shall illustrate these issues for you.

 

The approximate limit of materials is:

 

3.5 oz. (~100g) viscose for lining

14-15 oz. (~400g) of 21 micron merino wool

18 ft. (~5m) cotton lace

The pattern contains five parts: the back, front flap, two parts of the sleeve and the pocket. This model has a stand-up collar, but you may adjust most of collars from the next chapter using the special neckline on the pattern.

Pattern pieces are transferred to a polyethylene film or any other waterproof template.

We shall use a layer of viscose as the lining, as usual. It makes our jacket durable with a nice texture inside. It is important that the face and reverse side of the garment looks equally well.

I suggest the "two-layer" layout - it is easier for the beginners. Start the layout with the back detail following the diagram. Put the allowances for bending only at the side fold. Spread the roving exactly as diagrammed for the armhole, bottom and neck areas.

After finishing the layout, lay mesh over your work and moisten the wool with warm soapy water and manually rub through the mesh. No need to use a Sander.

Pay close attention to the armhole. This is the a crucial part of our design. Carefully rub and make the edges dense.

Turn over the pattern and continue laying out the front detail. Begin with viscose; then moisten and turn the allowances; then spread the wool following the diagram.

Arrange the pocket pattern on each side of the front flaps. Lay out lining with viscose; straighten the entrance of the pocket with an additional linear layer.

A small addition: cotton lace with a little frill. Cut the piece of film; lay the wool changing horizontal and vertical layer. Put the lace on the top, and then properly rub through the mesh.

Remove the template from the complete connected "flap-back-flap" detail. The next stage is the  sleeves; by making two templates for each sleeve our felting will be accomplished faster.

 

The sleeves are layed as a "pipe" layout; you need  to connect the two parts of the sleeve together - the back and front. Don't forget to mark the point of junction.

Don’t forget that the sleeves must be mirrored.

Lay down wool roving according to the diagram. Pay close attention to the armhole. Turn over details, bend allowances over viscose and finish the layout. Continue to felt the sleeves. Remove the template.

The shoulder line must be smooth and rounded. Try to enlarge this place when felting.

We can begin to join the sleeves when the armholes have about a 2/3 of shrinkage. Use a tape measure to make sure that the armhole circumference is equal to the sleeve.

 

Put the marks with the bright thread – they will be useful when connecting.

Setting a sleeve into an armhole – first use pins to put sleeves into place than baste the sleeve into place.

Continue felting the jacket; then rinse it and roll in a towel and prepare for the first fitting. While fitting the jacket, consider the areas you want to emphases.

 

It will be best to leave the jacket on the mannequin to dry. If you do not have a mannequin, leave the jacket on a hanger.

After the jacket has dried, we need to choose a method to sew our raglan sleeves. There are several methods: an inside seam, an outside seam, overlapping seam, decorating with knitted cord or lace; it all depends on your imagination. I strongly recommend you handle this seam from the inside.  This not only strengthens your jacket but also serves as a decorative function. Follow our motto: "wrong side should be as beautiful as it's outside".

I hope this pattern will stimulate your creativity while shortening the time in creating it.

 

Good luck!

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